Concealor Masterclass

If you can't heal it, hiding it is the next best thing- here's how to cover up the most challenging blemishes...

• Concealers come in all shapes and sizes, but the fanciest are generally for beautifying purposes other than hiding spots. Those pretty palettes of lilac, pink and gold correcting creams are designed to illuminate and even-out your complexion, as are the twist-up pens of pink-tinted liquids. Never use these to conceal a spot, as all they'll do is highlight the area and draw attention to everything you're trying to pretend isn't there.
  

• A palette that provides you with a selection of flesh tones, however, allows you to custom-blend a concealer to suit any complexion and any blemish. The rule of thumb to remember is that darker tones make objects recede into the background, while lighter tones bring things forward.
  

• Green concealers work by neutralising redness, but you'll need to layer a fleshy shade over the top to bring your blemish back into line with the colour of your skin. Many make-up artists swear by yellow-based concealers, as they say that most complexions are made up of far more yellow pigments than pink. Try Bobbi Brown Blemish Cover Up Stick, £15.
  

• Foundation comes first. If you apply your concealer before you apply your base, you'll wipe away all your handiwork with the first swipe of the foundation sponge.
  

• Piling on the product isn't going to fool anyone -  a dried-up clot of concealer looks less attractive than the spot you tried to cover in the first place. Aim your chosen concealer at the spot itself rather than the skin that surrounds it, using a short, pointed brush to 'stipple' over the blemish with tiny dots.
  

• Concealer that doesn't stay where it should is no good to anyone: always set with loose translucent powder, taking care not to dislodge your carefully applied coverage. Once the first application has been set, apply another coat if it's really needed, and then set again with powder.
  

• If your blemish has a particularly shiny surface, applying your powder first gives the concealer something to grip onto. If your concealer needs attention half way through the day, lightly moisten your base before you apply more - it will stop your skin from looking cakey and make it much easier to blend everything back together again.

• Another route is to try one of the long-lasting concealers, which are far less drying than they used to be. Revlon Colorstay Stay Natural Concealer, £6.29, is budge-proof.

• Many concealers now contain active ingredients that will help to heal your blemishes as well as hide them. The Body Shop's Tea Tree Oil Cover Stick, £3.99 comes in a range of shades and contains anti-bacterial tea tree oil to speed up the healing process.
  

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